Tub-to-Shower Conversion Process: Step-by-Step

A tub-to-shower conversion involves coordinated work across multiple building trades: demolition, plumbing, carpentry, waterproofing, tile setting, glass fabrication, and fixture installation. Each phase depends on the one before it, and rushing or reordering steps leads to failures that are expensive to fix after the fact.

At Oakwood Remodeling Group, our tub-to-shower conversion service follows a proven sequence developed over hundreds of completed projects. This guide walks through each stage so you know exactly what is happening in your bathroom, why it is happening in that order, and what the crew is checking before moving to the next phase.

Pre-Construction: Before the First Hammer Swing

The conversion process begins well before demolition day. Two critical steps happen first:

In-Home Assessment

A project lead visits your home to evaluate the existing conditions. This is not a sales call -- it is a technical evaluation. The assessment covers:

• Alcove dimensions: Measuring the tub opening, ceiling height, and any obstructions (windows, soffits, ductwork) that affect the shower design.
• Plumbing access: Determining whether the supply and drain lines are accessible from below (crawl space or basement) or require access through the subfloor or adjacent rooms.
• Foundation type: Slab-on-grade foundations require concrete cutting for drain relocation, which changes the plumbing scope and timeline.
• Existing pipe materials: Identifying galvanized steel, copper, CPVC, PEX, cast iron, or ABS to determine if pipe upgrades are recommended while the walls are open.
• Electrical: Checking for GFCI protection, exhaust fan condition, and lighting adequacy.

Material Selection and Permit Filing

Based on the assessment, we finalize your material selections (tile, grout color, shower valve, glass configuration, fixture trim) and submit the permit application. Permits in Sacramento and Placer County typically take 1 to 3 weeks. We order long-lead items (frameless glass panels, specialty tile, custom fixtures) during this window so everything arrives before demolition.

Day 1: Demolition and Rough Assessment

Demolition is the most disruptive day, but it is also the most informative. Here is the sequence:

• Protection setup: Floor runners from the entry to the bathroom, plastic sheeting over doorways, drop cloths on any exposed surfaces. The work area is fully contained.
• Water shutoff and fixture disconnection: Supply lines are shut off, the tub faucet and drain are disconnected, and the overflow assembly is removed.
• Tub removal: Steel and cast iron tubs are cut in place with a reciprocating saw for safe removal. Fiberglass and acrylic tubs are typically removed intact. The tub and all debris go directly to the disposal trailer.
• Surround removal: Existing wall tile, backer board, or tub surround panels are stripped down to the studs. This exposes the wall framing, plumbing, and any hidden conditions.
• Subfloor inspection: With the tub out, the crew inspects the subfloor for water damage, rot, mold, or structural deficiencies. This is where most hidden conditions reveal themselves.

At the end of day 1, the alcove is stripped to bare framing and subfloor. The project lead photographs everything and reviews the conditions with the plumber to confirm or adjust the plumbing plan.

Day 2: Plumbing Rough-In and Structural Repair

This is the most technically demanding day. The plumber reconfigures the drain and supply lines for the new shower layout:

• Drain relocation: The existing tub drain (typically at one end of the alcove) is abandoned and a new drain is set at the shower pan location (usually centered or offset toward the back wall). The P-trap is repositioned, and the drain line is extended or rerouted to connect to the existing waste stack.
• Vent stack connection: The plumber verifies that the new drain location is properly vented per California Plumbing Code. If the existing vent does not serve the new location, an air admittance valve (where allowed) or new vent branch is installed.
• Shower valve installation: New hot and cold supply lines are run to the valve location (approximately 48 inches above the finished floor). A thermostatic or pressure-balance valve body is mounted to blocking between studs.
• Blocking for accessories: Wood blocking is installed between studs at grab bar locations, glass anchor points, showerhead arm, and any built-in bench supports.

If subfloor repair is needed, the carpenter works alongside the plumber: damaged plywood is cut out, joists are sistered if compromised, and new 3/4-inch exterior-grade plywood is installed. This structural work must be complete before the shower pan is built.

Day 3: Shower Pan and Backer Board

With plumbing roughed in and the subfloor solid, the shower base and wall substrates are constructed:

• Pre-slope (mortar bed): A sloped mortar bed is troweled over the subfloor, creating the drainage pitch (minimum 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain). This layer must cure before the waterproofing membrane is applied.
• Drain assembly: The drain flange is set at the correct height to align with the finished tile surface, accounting for the mortar bed, membrane, thinset, and tile thickness.
• Backer board installation: Cement backer board (Hardiebacker, Kerdi-Board, or similar) is fastened to the wall studs with corrosion-resistant screws. Seams are taped and sealed. This substrate is what the waterproofing membrane and tile will bond to.
• Curb construction (if applicable): A wood-framed or foam curb is built at the shower threshold, wrapped in backer board, and prepared for waterproofing. For curbless designs, the subfloor is already recessed to allow the shower floor to sit flush with the bathroom floor.

Day 4: Waterproofing

Waterproofing is the most critical phase of any shower build. A failure here leads to water intrusion into the wall cavity and subfloor -- damage that is invisible until it becomes severe. Our protocol:

• Membrane application: A bonded waterproofing membrane (Schluter KERDI, Laticrete Hydro Ban, or equivalent) is applied over all shower surfaces: floor, walls (minimum 3 inches above the showerhead rough-in), and the curb (all five surfaces).
• Corner and seam treatment: Pre-formed inside and outside corner pieces are embedded into the membrane at every transition. These factory-made accessories eliminate the weak points where flat membrane sheets meet at angles.
• Penetration sealing: The shower valve opening, showerhead arm penetration, and any niche openings are sealed with compatible sealant or membrane collars.
• Flood testing: On premium projects, we flood-test the shower pan by plugging the drain and filling the pan to curb height for 24 hours. Any water level drop indicates a breach that must be found and repaired before tile work begins.

The waterproofing membrane must cure according to manufacturer specifications (typically 12 to 24 hours for liquid-applied systems) before tile installation begins. We do not rush this step.

Days 5-6: Tile Installation

Tile work is the most time-intensive phase and the one that determines the visual quality of the finished shower:

• Layout planning: Before any thinset is mixed, the tile setter dry-lays the pattern to verify alignment, minimize cuts, and center the layout on the focal wall. Adjustments are made now, not after adhesive is applied.
• Floor tile: Shower floor tile (typically mosaic or small-format for proper drainage slope conformity) is set first. Each tile must follow the mortar bed slope so water drains completely.
• Wall tile: Walls are tiled from bottom to top, starting from the second row up (the first row is cut last to meet the floor tile). Large-format tiles require back-buttering in addition to troweled thinset for full coverage.
• Niche and accent work: Built-in niches are tiled with mitered or bullnose edges. Accent bands, listello strips, or pattern changes are incorporated per the approved design.
• Grout application: After thinset cures (minimum 24 hours), grout is applied, tooled to a consistent profile, and cleaned. Sanded grout is standard for joints wider than 1/8 inch; unsanded for narrower joints.
• Grout sealing: Cementitious grout is sealed after curing to resist staining and moisture absorption. Epoxy grout (an upgrade option) does not require sealing.

Day 7: Glass, Fixtures, and Trim

The final construction day brings the project together:

• Glass enclosure installation: The glass fabricator installs the panel or door system, anchoring through the tile into the blocking behind. Silicone sealant is applied at all glass-to-tile joints.
• Fixture trim-out: The shower valve trim plate, handle, showerhead, handheld unit, and any body sprays are installed and tested. Water is turned on, the valve is checked for proper temperature control, and all connections are inspected for leaks.
• Silicone caulking: All change-of-plane joints (where the floor meets the walls, where the walls meet each other, and where fixtures penetrate tile) receive silicone caulk instead of grout. Silicone accommodates the slight structural movement that grout cannot.
• Final cleanup: All construction debris, dust, and protective coverings are removed. The shower is cleaned and left ready for use after a 24-hour caulk cure period.

Common Complications and How We Handle Them

Even with thorough pre-construction assessment, some conditions are only discoverable after demolition:

• Subfloor rot: Found in roughly 25-30% of conversions where the original tub was 15+ years old. Repair involves cutting back to solid wood, sistering joists if compromised, and installing new plywood. Typical added time: half a day. Typical added cost: $800 to $2,500.
• Galvanized or polybutylene plumbing: These materials are at or past end of life. We recommend replacing accessible sections with PEX or copper while the walls are open. Deferring this repair means opening the wall again later. Typical added cost: $1,200 to $3,500.
• Insufficient joist depth: In some older homes, floor joists may not have adequate depth for the new drain configuration, particularly for curbless designs. Solutions include using a low-profile P-trap, rerouting the drain at a shallower angle, or sistering deeper joists. This is uncommon but adds half a day to a full day when it occurs.
• Asbestos in old tile or mastic: Pre-1980 tile adhesive and some vinyl flooring contain asbestos. If suspected, we pause work, have the material tested, and arrange certified abatement if confirmed. Abatement typically costs $1,000 to $3,500 and adds 2 to 5 days for scheduling and clearance testing.
• Inadequate exhaust ventilation: Many older bathrooms have undersized or poorly ducted exhaust fans. Since the shower will produce more concentrated moisture than a tub, upgrading to a properly ducted, appropriately rated fan is important for long-term moisture management.

Pre-Construction Checklist for Homeowners

The work our crew does on-site is only part of the equation. How well you prepare your home before demolition day directly affects the project's efficiency, your comfort during construction, and the protection of your belongings. Here is a comprehensive checklist we provide to every client before their conversion begins.

Clear the Bathroom Completely

Remove everything from the bathroom: all toiletries, medications, towels, bath mats, wastebaskets, wall-mounted accessories (towel bars, robe hooks, toilet paper holders), shower curtains, and any items stored inside vanity cabinets. Demolition generates fine dust that penetrates closed cabinets and drawers, so even items inside furniture should be relocated. Store everything in a bedroom or closet that can be closed off from the work area.

Protect Adjacent Rooms

Our crew installs dust containment barriers at the bathroom doorway, but additional protection helps. Move or cover furniture, artwork, and electronics in rooms adjacent to the bathroom and along the path the crew will use to carry debris and materials. Hallway runners protect flooring from tool cases, tile boxes, and heavy foot traffic. If the bathroom shares a wall with a bedroom, consider temporarily relocating items leaning against that wall, as demolition vibration can knock things loose on the opposite side.

Plan for Alternative Bathroom Access

If the bathroom being converted is your only full bathroom, the water supply to that room will be interrupted during plumbing rough-in (typically day 2) and may be unavailable for showering for the duration of the project (5 to 14 days depending on scope). Plan ahead: arrange to use a gym shower, a neighbor's or family member's bathroom, or set up a temporary shower arrangement. If you have a second bathroom, it will remain fully functional throughout the project -- our plumbing shutoffs are isolated to the work area.

Pet and Child Considerations

Construction zones contain sharp debris, dust, open wall cavities, and power tools that are dangerous for children and pets. Confine pets to a room away from the work area and the material staging path. If possible, arrange for pets to stay elsewhere on demolition day (day 1), which is the loudest and most disruptive phase. Young children should not enter the work area at any point during construction. We maintain clean, organized jobsites, but active construction is inherently unsafe for unsupervised access.

Parking and Access for Work Trucks

Our crews arrive with a work truck or van loaded with tools and materials, and a disposal trailer or dumpster is often placed in the driveway for debris removal. Ensure the driveway is accessible and that any vehicles not needed during the day are moved to the street or garage. If your homeowners association has rules about commercial vehicles, work trailers, or dumpster placement, let us know in advance so we can arrange compliant staging. In neighborhoods with narrow streets (common in older Sacramento areas like Land Park, Curtis Park, and East Sacramento), street parking coordination may be needed.

What Happens Behind the Walls: What We Typically Find in Sacramento-Area Homes

Demolition day is the most informative day of the project because it reveals conditions hidden behind the tub surround, inside the wall cavity, and beneath the subfloor. After completing hundreds of tub-to-shower conversions across the Sacramento metro, we have a detailed picture of what to expect -- and what surprises still catch homeowners off guard -- based on the age and construction type of the home.

Galvanized Drain Pipes (Pre-1975 Homes)

Sacramento ranch homes built from the 1950s through the early 1970s commonly have galvanized steel drain pipes and cast iron waste stacks. After 50 to 70 years of service, these pipes are typically corroded internally, with rough mineral deposits that reduce effective diameter by 30-50%. In many cases, the interior of a 1.5-inch galvanized drain has corroded down to an effective opening of less than 1 inch. While the existing tub may have drained adequately (tubs drain slowly by nature), a shower drain handles a higher instantaneous flow rate and will not tolerate a partially blocked pipe. We evaluate these drain lines during demolition and recommend replacement if corrosion is significant.

Undersized or Missing Vent Pipes

Proper drain venting prevents gurgling, slow drainage, and sewer gas backflow. California Plumbing Code requires each drain fixture to be vented within a specific distance of the trap. In older Sacramento homes, we frequently find vent configurations that were either installed incorrectly, modified by previous work without proper venting, or never met current code requirements (which have become more stringent over the decades). Common issues include vent pipes that terminate in the attic instead of exiting through the roof, S-traps instead of P-traps (S-traps have been prohibited by code for decades but remain in older homes), and vent runs that exceed the maximum developed length for the pipe diameter. Correcting vent deficiencies typically adds $500 to $1,200 but prevents chronic drainage problems in the new shower.

Inadequate Wall Blocking

Modern showers require solid blocking behind the wall substrate at multiple points: the shower valve, the showerhead arm, grab bar locations, glass panel anchors, and any built-in bench supports. Most original tub installations have blocking only at the tub faucet location (12 to 16 inches above the floor), which is useless for a shower valve at 48 inches. Installing proper blocking is a straightforward carpentry task -- pieces of 2x6 or 2x8 are cut to fit between studs and screwed or nailed into position -- but it must be done before backer board and waterproofing, which is why discovering the framing conditions on demolition day is critical.

Moisture Damage from Failed Caulk Joints

This is the most common hidden condition we encounter, appearing in roughly 25-30% of all conversions regardless of home age. The joint between the tub and the wall surround (whether tile, fiberglass, or acrylic) relies on a bead of silicone or latex caulk to prevent water from reaching the wall cavity. Over years of use, that caulk dries out, cracks, and peels away from one or both surfaces. Even a small gap allows water to wick behind the surround during every shower, creating a persistently damp environment in the wall cavity.

What we find ranges from minor discoloration and soft drywall (which is resolved by removing the affected material and installing cement backer board) to active mold colonies on the back side of the surround and into the stud framing. Minor moisture damage is addressed as part of the standard conversion scope. Significant mold growth may require professional remediation before we can proceed with the build, which adds $1,000 to $3,000 and 2 to 5 days depending on extent.

Outdated Electrical Wiring

While opening the wall for a shower conversion, we frequently discover electrical issues in older Sacramento homes: ungrounded outlets, absence of GFCI protection on the bathroom circuit (required by code since 1975 but often missing in homes built before that date), and in some cases knob-and-tube or cloth-wrapped wiring that should be evaluated by a licensed electrician. If the bathroom exhaust fan is on the same circuit as the lighting, we verify that the fan is properly rated for wet locations and that the ductwork actually exits the building (not just into the attic, which is a moisture problem rather than a moisture solution). Electrical upgrades during a conversion are typically minor -- $200 to $800 for GFCI protection, fan replacement, and updated wiring -- and they bring the bathroom into compliance with current safety codes.

Waterproofing a Conversion: Why It Differs from New Construction

Waterproofing is covered in the day-by-day timeline above, but conversions present unique waterproofing challenges that new shower construction does not. Understanding these differences helps you appreciate why conversion waterproofing requires more expertise and attention than building a shower in a new home.

Existing Subfloor Conditions

In new construction, the shower is built on a fresh, level subfloor with known material and thickness. In a conversion, the subfloor has supported a heavy tub for 15 to 60 years and may have minor deflection, old adhesive residue, nail holes, or areas where the plywood delaminated from moisture exposure around the drain. Before the mortar pre-slope and waterproofing membrane can be applied, the subfloor must be evaluated and repaired to provide a solid, stable substrate. Any soft spots, raised edges, or delamination must be addressed because the waterproofing membrane bonds directly to this surface -- imperfections in the substrate become imperfections in the waterproof envelope.

Matching Drain Connections

New construction showers have drain connections designed and installed as part of the original plumbing system. Conversions must transition from the old tub drain configuration to a new shower drain, which often involves adapter fittings, transition couplings, and careful alignment between the drain flange height and the finished tile surface. The drain flange must sit at precisely the right height to account for the mortar bed, waterproofing membrane, thinset adhesive, and tile thickness. If the flange is too high, the tile will not seat properly around it; too low, and water pools around the drain instead of flowing into it. Our plumbers set the drain flange during rough-in and verify the height calculation before the tile setter begins floor work.

Creating Slope Where None Existed

A bathtub floor is flat -- it holds standing water by design. A shower floor must slope toward the drain at a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot so water flows to the drain rather than pooling. Creating this slope means building up a mortar pre-slope over the flat subfloor, with the thickest point at the perimeter walls and the thinnest point at the drain. For a standard 60x30 alcove with a center drain, this means approximately 3/8 to 1/2 inch of height difference between the drain and the nearest wall (15 inches away at a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope).

The pre-slope mortar must be mixed to the correct consistency (a "dry pack" mix that holds its shape when compressed), troweled to uniform slope in all directions toward the drain, and allowed to cure before the waterproofing membrane is applied over it. Rushing this step or using the wrong mortar consistency leads to uneven slope, which causes standing water in the finished shower -- a condition called "birdbathing" that is one of the most common complaints about poorly executed conversions.

Membrane Integration at Transition Points

The waterproofing membrane must create a continuous, watertight envelope across every surface of the shower and at every transition point: floor to wall, wall to wall, around the drain flange, around the shower valve penetration, and around any niche openings. In new construction, all of these transitions are clean and square. In conversions, the transitions may involve slightly irregular framing (walls that are not perfectly plumb after decades of settling), subfloor edges that are not perfectly level, and drain connections that are slightly off-center from the ideal position. Each of these variations requires the installer to adapt the membrane application technique while maintaining a watertight seal. This is where installer experience matters most -- a waterproofing specialist who has done hundreds of conversions handles these irregularities instinctively, while an installer accustomed to new construction may not anticipate them.

Final Walkthrough and Care Instructions

After the building inspector signs off on the completed conversion, we schedule a final walkthrough with you. This is not a rushed handshake at the door -- it is a structured review of everything that was built, how to maintain it, and what to expect during the first year of use.

What We Review During the Walkthrough

• Shower valve operation: We demonstrate the temperature control, show you where the scald guard is set and how to adjust it if needed, and test the diverter between the fixed head and handheld (if applicable). You should know exactly how every control works before we leave.
• Glass enclosure: We check all glass panels for secure anchoring, verify that doors swing and latch properly, and point out the silicone joints that seal the glass to tile. We explain what silicone maintenance looks like over time (reapplication every 2 to 3 years).
• Tile and grout condition: We inspect every tiled surface with you, checking for any grout voids, lippage, or inconsistencies. This is your opportunity to flag anything that does not meet expectations while the crew is still on-site to address it.
• Drain performance: We run the shower at full volume and verify that the drain handles the flow without backup, that the floor slope directs all water to the drain, and that there is no standing water (birdbathing) after the water is turned off.

Cure Times: When You Can Use the Shower

After the final construction day, several materials need time to reach full strength:

• Silicone caulk: Do not run water in the shower for a minimum of 24 hours after caulk application. Most silicone sealants reach full cure in 24 to 48 hours depending on humidity and temperature. Sacramento's dry summer climate can slow cure times slightly compared to more humid environments.
• Grout: Cementitious grout reaches initial set in 24 hours but continues to cure for 28 days. Light shower use is fine after the 24-hour caulk cure, but avoid direct high-pressure water on fresh grout joints for the first 72 hours. Do not apply grout sealer until the grout has cured for at least 72 hours (some sealers require 28 days for optimal penetration).
• Thinset adhesive: The adhesive bonding tile to the substrate cures over 24 to 48 hours. By the time you are at the walkthrough stage, thinset is already cured because it was applied before grouting.

First-Year Maintenance Schedule

Your new shower is built to last decades, but the first year involves a few maintenance tasks that protect your investment:

• Week 4: Apply grout sealer to all cementitious grout joints (we provide the recommended product). This step is especially important in the Sacramento area where hard water leaves mineral deposits that can stain unsealed grout within months.
• Month 3: Inspect all silicone caulk joints for adhesion. New silicone occasionally pulls away from one surface during initial curing as the building settles. If you see a gap, contact us -- recaulking during the warranty period is covered.
• Month 6: Check the glass enclosure hardware (brackets, clamps, hinges) for tightness. Thermal cycling and daily use can loosen hardware slightly over the first several months. A quick hand-tighten of any loose screws prevents glass movement.
• Month 12: Reapply grout sealer. Annual sealer application is the single best thing you can do to maintain grout appearance and prevent moisture absorption. Sacramento's hard water (averaging 150 to 300 ppm of dissolved minerals depending on your water district) accelerates mineral buildup on unsealed grout.

Warranty Activation

Our workmanship warranty begins on the date of the final walkthrough and covers labor, waterproofing integrity, and installation quality. Fixture and material warranties are provided by the respective manufacturers and are registered on your behalf. We provide a complete warranty packet at the walkthrough that includes our labor warranty terms, manufacturer warranty cards, product care guides, and the contact information for our warranty service team. If any issue arises within the warranty period, a single call to our office initiates the resolution process -- you do not need to coordinate between multiple vendors or subcontractors.

Sacramento-Specific Timeline Factors

Construction timelines are not universal -- they are influenced by local climate, permit processing speed, material supply chains, and labor availability. Sacramento-area conversions face specific timeline factors that homeowners should understand when planning their project schedule.

Summer Heat and Material Handling

Sacramento's summer temperatures routinely exceed 100°F and can reach 110°F during heat waves. While interior bathroom work is largely unaffected by outdoor temperature, certain materials are temperature-sensitive during transport and staging. Thinset mortar and grout cure faster in high heat, which reduces the working time available before the material begins to set. Experienced tile setters adjust by mixing smaller batches and working in shorter intervals. Silicone caulk applied in extremely hot, dry conditions can skin over before achieving proper adhesion. Our crews account for these factors by staging materials inside the home the night before installation and adjusting application schedules during extreme heat events.

From a scheduling perspective, Sacramento's summer heat does not delay interior projects, but it does affect crew comfort. Our teams start earlier during summer months (7:00 AM instead of 8:00 AM) to maximize productive hours before afternoon temperatures peak. This earlier start time is something to plan for if the bathroom being converted is near bedrooms where household members are sleeping.

Permit Processing Variability

Permit processing times in Sacramento-area jurisdictions range from 1 to 3 weeks, but these are averages. During peak construction season (March through June), building departments experience higher volumes that can extend processing by an additional 1 to 2 weeks. The City of Roseville's online permitting system is generally faster than paper-based processes in some smaller jurisdictions, but digital does not mean instant -- plan review still requires human attention. We submit permit applications as early as possible in the project planning phase and order long-lead materials (frameless glass, specialty tile, custom fixtures) during the permit processing window so that the project is fully staged before the permit is approved.

Material Lead Times and Local Availability

Standard materials -- subway tile, large-format porcelain, basic shower valves -- are stocked at Sacramento-area suppliers and available within days. Specialty items have longer lead times: custom frameless glass panels require 5 to 10 business days for fabrication after field measurements (which happen after tile is installed), imported or hand-glazed tile can take 2 to 4 weeks for delivery, and premium fixture lines (Watermark, California Faucets, Newport Brass) often have 3 to 6 week lead times for non-stocked finishes. We identify all long-lead items during the design phase and order them before demolition begins, so the project does not stall waiting for a backordered showerhead or a delayed tile shipment.

Communication During Your Project

One of the most common complaints homeowners have about remodeling contractors is poor communication. Projects go silent for days, questions go unanswered, and changes happen without explanation. Our communication protocol is designed to prevent all of these frustrations.

Daily Progress Updates

At the end of each workday, your project lead sends a brief update (via text, email, or your preferred method) covering what was completed that day, what is scheduled for the next day, and whether any issues or decisions need your attention. This takes 2 minutes to read and keeps you informed without requiring you to be present on-site during construction hours. If we discover a hidden condition during demolition or encounter a decision point that was not anticipated during planning, we document it with photos and present options before proceeding.

Change Order Process

If unforeseen conditions require work beyond the original scope -- subfloor rot beneath the tub, galvanized pipes that need replacement, mold behind the surround -- we follow a strict change order protocol. The project lead documents the discovery with photographs, explains what needs to happen and why, provides a written cost for the additional work, and waits for your written approval before proceeding. No work beyond the original scope happens without your explicit consent and a documented cost agreement. This protects you from surprise charges and gives you the information needed to make an informed decision about scope additions.

Inspection Coordination

Building inspections happen at specific milestones: rough plumbing (after pipes are installed but before walls are closed) and final (after all work is complete). We handle all inspection scheduling, are present during every inspection, and address any inspector comments immediately. You will be notified when inspections are scheduled and informed of the results the same day. If a correction is required (uncommon but possible), we explain what needs to change, make the correction, schedule the re-inspection, and absorb the re-inspection fee if the issue was our responsibility.

Quality Checkpoints: What We Verify Before Moving to the Next Phase

Each phase of a conversion must meet specific quality standards before the next phase begins. Rushing past a failed checkpoint creates compounding problems that become exponentially more expensive to fix later. Here are the critical checkpoints built into our process.

Post-Demolition Checkpoint

Before plumbing rough-in begins, we verify: subfloor is structurally sound (no soft spots, delamination, or joist damage), wall framing is plumb and square within tolerance, existing drain and supply pipe conditions are documented, and the alcove dimensions match the design plan. Any structural repairs (subfloor replacement, joist sistering) happen here because they cannot be done after plumbing and waterproofing are in place. This checkpoint prevents the scenario where a plumber installs drain lines over a subfloor that will later need to be cut out for structural repair.

Post-Plumbing Checkpoint

Before backer board and waterproofing begin, we verify: drain slope is correct (minimum 1/4 inch per foot), P-trap is properly configured and accessible, supply lines are pressure-tested with no leaks, shower valve is mounted at the correct height and depth (so the trim plate will sit flush against the finished tile surface), and all blocking is installed at grab bar, glass, and accessory locations. This is the last opportunity to adjust plumbing positions before they are sealed behind waterproofing and tile.

Post-Waterproofing Checkpoint

Before tile installation begins, we verify: membrane coverage is complete on all shower surfaces with no gaps or unsealed penetrations, corner and seam treatments are properly embedded, the drain connection is sealed, and (for premium projects) the flood test shows no water level drop over 24 hours. A waterproofing failure discovered after tile is installed means tearing out the tile, membrane, and mortar bed to repair the breach -- a $3,000 to $6,000 correction that is entirely preventable with proper inspection at this stage.

Post-Tile Checkpoint

Before grout application, we verify: all tiles are properly bonded (hollow-sounding tiles indicate thinset voids that must be corrected), grout joints are consistent in width, tile is level and free of lippage (where one tile edge sits higher than the adjacent tile), niche edges are clean and properly finished, and the floor slope still directs water to the drain after tile installation. After grouting, we verify that grout fills all joints completely, the profile is consistent, and the grout color matches the approved sample. Grout corrections after curing require grinding out and reapplying, which is time-consuming -- catching issues while the grout is fresh takes minutes.

Final Inspection and Handoff

Once all work is complete, the building inspector visits to verify code compliance. The inspection covers plumbing connections, drain slope, anti-scald valve operation, and electrical work. After the inspection passes, we conduct a final walkthrough with you to review every detail, demonstrate the shower controls, and provide care instructions for your tile and glass.

Ready to understand what your specific conversion involves? Schedule a free in-home assessment with Oakwood Remodeling Group. We will evaluate your existing bathroom, discuss your goals, and provide a detailed scope and timeline for your project.